A universal condenser fan motor can be a great choice for a variety of different air conditioning or cooling applications. The motors used for these units are designed to be durable and cost-effective, while still providing powerful cooling relief capabilities. With the right motor, customers can also reap the benefits of safer, longer-term use without sacrificing efficiency or performance. The universal condenser fan motor is designed to maintain consistent performance regardless of its environment. It is often used in HVAC systems, air conditioners, and refrigeration pools. The universal condenser fan motor offers superior energy-saving potential due to its unique design characteristics. The maintenance service and costs associated with the unit are often minimal, making it an ideal choice for homeowners

A root cellar is an underground area of a house or an outbuilding where root vegetables or other food items can be stored at a specific temperature and humidity. Many people use root cellars to store items such as potatoes, onions, apples, carrots, squash, and beets. Root cellars can be especially helpful if a homeowner does not have consistent access to a refrigerator or freezer. If you are considering using a root cellar to store your food, it is important to understand that the ideal root cellar temperature and humidity vary depending on the type of food that is being stored. For example, fruits, such as apples and pears, are best stored at 32-40°F (0-4°C) with a humidity of 85-95%.

When it comes to keeping your home comfortable throughout the year, a residential heating and cooling system plays an integral role. From regulating the temperature in summer and winter months to providing air quality control, your HVAC system is fundamental in allowing you to maintain a comfortable environment in your home. A residential heating and cooling system is composed of two major components: a heating system for providing warmth in cold months, and a cooling system for providing thermostatic comfort in warm months. HVAC systems work by utilizing refrigeration and thermodynamics, which helps to circulate air through your home. The temperature control and air quality control is regulated by a thermostat, which is controlled either manually or via a smart

If your basement feels damp or musty, it could be the result of a wide range of causes. High moisture levels in the soil, condensation, flooding, and a variety of other factors could be responsible for damp conditions underground. Resolving this issue requires the right damp basement floor solution. Fortunately, a range of products are available that will make your basement floor dry, comfortable, and safe. One of the best ways to solve a damp basement floor dilemma is to use an epoxy sealant. This waterproof material is used to protect the concrete or stone from the seepage of moisture from the soil below. Once applied, it will prevent water from entering your floor and creating damp patches. It is

When it comes to maintaining a comfortable and healthy indoor environment, the proper functioning of your heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system is crucial. While most people are familiar with the supply air ducts that deliver conditioned air throughout their homes, the role of furnace return air ducts is often overlooked. In this article, we will explore the importance of furnace return air ducts and how they contribute to the overall performance of your HVAC system. What are Furnace Return Air Ducts? Furnace return air ducts, also known as return ducts or return vents, are responsible for drawing air from inside your home and delivering it back to the HVAC system for treatment and conditioning...

This return grille installed relatively easy and best of all after painting it the wall color, it perfectly blends into my accent wall. It turned an eyesore into a decorative detail. Love it!! Want to replace all my stamped metal ones now. Perfect Easy installation. Adds so much character to the house as opposed to the ugly metal replacement grilles. Easy, First Class Upgrade Reluctant to replace a perfectly functioning grill, I ordered this item to please my wife. I had to admit (again)that she makes wise choices. It looks rich, is well built, fit perfectly and easy to install. Family and friends notice it immediately and want to know where we got it. Can I get a little commission on future sales? ;) Looks Great With a few easy adjustments it covered the old hole and the paint matched the cabinet above it perfectly. easy upgrade! this was easily installed and looks amazing! the hardest part of the whole process was removing the old, ugly one. our new one not only looks gorgeous, its much easier to open and close when replacing the air filter.

We provide the worlds foremost range of products for basement drainage, structural waterproofing and underground wall and floor protection. Cost effective, simple to install, DELTA® membranes keep hydrostatic pressure away from walls, ceilings and floors keeping living spaces dry and insulated. Our systems can be used on domestic and/or commercial properties from small scale basement conversions to major public works, such as the London Underground. The channel tunnel for example claims over 70, 000m² of DELTA®-MS. DELTA Systems can easily deal with aggressive ground water conditions, where basements are liable to flooding, or indeed where simple dampness, contamination or salting problems are prevalent. The main components of the system are the membranes themselves. These are manufactured from virgin HDPE which is thermally alkaline stabilised. The stud heights vary between 3mm for DELTA®-FM, 8 mm for DELTA® MS 500 & DELTA® PT-Lath to 20 mm for DELTA® MS 20. The cavity created by the membrane contains between 5 and 10 Litres of space respectively. This is known as either the “Air gap” or the “Drained Cavity”, in wet situations. The cavity drain system forms a waterproof inner lining to the walls and floor whereby the water or dampness is collected and managed via a sump/pump station. The membranes are manufactured in Herdecke, Germany under full quality and environmental assurance schemes. The system has full professional legislative approvals in all countries in which it is used. But the innovative world class design and top quality manufacturing and materials are only the start. We provide a complete design, training and report service to ensure our products are always used to their maximum potential. We’re a one stop shop right from the design stage to on site visits with recommended installers that can provide the necessary warranties and guarantees. The Sealed System In Soil retaining situations such as basements and vaults etc. The DELTA sealed system is recommended. The membrane selection depends on the required finish and flow rate if applicable. All membrane junctions, fixing points, service entries and other protrusions are sealed with the DELTA Seal range of sealing products. Where active ground water is evident or expected drainage of one form or another should be incorporated into the specification. Our Technical staff are available to give advice in this respect. The Ventilated System In above ground situations or in areas where no free running water is expected, for example where external pavements have been built up the ventilated system can be used. The ventilated system with air gap at top and bottom, with sealed joints and fixings is sufficient in this situation. This method is seen as a sympathetic solution in Heritage type properties as a general damp proofing system. The fabric of the building remains unchanged but the new internal surfaces are ‘dry’ and are salt and contamination free. Both dry lining or plaster direct finishes are available on the ventilated system. For any queries on cellar drainage equipment, basement waterproofing solutions or structural waterproofing systems please contact us. Get in touch

Almost 70% of the houses in South Carolina have crawl space foundations. We build more crawl space foundations than any other state in the country. Yet we continue to have problems with our crawl spaces. These problems include mold and decay, elevated radon levels, and termite and other pest concerns. We see condensation on ductwork, mold on joists, termite and wood boring beetle damage and cupped hardwood floors. Our current solution is to increase ventilation of the crawl space. At an Affordable Comfort meeting that I recently attended, a speaker from Canada said that venting crawl spaces in the southeastern US was lunacy. I have to agree. In this paper, I will discuss some of the fallacies I see with our current practice of venting crawl space foundations, and provide guidelines for a higher performance crawl space. Fallacy #1 - A research basis for current crawl space ventilation guidelines exists. Supposedly we vent crawl spaces to help control moisture. Looking back through historical documents we find several documents that discuss venting crawl spaces. In 1939, the Forest Products Lab published "Use and Abuse of Wood in House Construction" which contains "Screened vents totaling 3 percent of the house are best, with a thoroughly insulated floor… One small ventilator in each wall is hardly enough in the damp South." In 1942, the Federal Housing Administration's "Property Standards and Minimum Construction Guidelines" contained the first requirement for ventilation of crawl spaces in regulatory literature. It pre-dates any known research on crawl space performance. These requirements state in part "Provide a sufficient number of foundation wall vents to assure a total ventilating area equivalent to 1/2 percent of the enclosed area plus 1/2 square foot for each linear feet of wall enclosing that area." In 1948, the Housing and Home Finance Agency (HHFA) published "Crawl Spaces: their effect on dwellings." This document contains a discussion of some investigative work done by Britton on several housing complexes. Britton said "when ventilation to the extent of 1/1500 of the building area was cut into the crawl space walls, in conjunction with ventilation of approximately 1/500 of the building area in the loft space walls and the covering of the crawl space ground with 55# mineral surfaced roofing, all trouble was apparently eliminated." An interesting note with this discussion was that Britton was investigating attic moisture problems. Britton included the note "Where crawl space floors are covered with 55# mineral surfaced roll roofing in an effective manner, the specified wall ventilation may well be reduced as much as 90% for controlled construction." The HHFA followed with another document that stated "Where a good cover is applied over the entire surface of the ground in the crawl space, very little ventilation [10% of formula] is needed." The next thing we see is updated code requirements. The Minimum Property Standards of 1958 state "At least 4 foundation wall ventilators shall be provided, one located close to each corner of the space, having an aggregate net free ventilating area not less than 1/150 of the area of the basementless spaces, or ground surface treatment in the form of a vapor barrier material…plus at least 2 foundation wall ventilators having an aggregate net free ventilating area not less than 1/1500 of the area of the basementless space." The only difference I see between this 1958 code and the 2000 IRC code is that today we require a minimum of four vents at the 1/1500 ventilation level. From my investigations and those of Bill Rose of the Building Research Council at the University of Illinois, research to support these recommendations and the code does not exist. What I can find in the literature appears to be limited to a field investigation with several moisture control steps happening at once. I do not see an evaluation of the effectiveness of each step. That is: When attic ventilation AND foundation ventilation AND a soil cover were added, the ATTIC moisture problem was fixed. These papers certainly contain good information, but I do not think it contains enough information to support our existing building codes and ventilation requirements. In addition, nothing in the literature was found that scientifically supports partially covering the soil in a crawl space. Fallacy #2 - We build houses the same today as when current crawl space ventilation guidelines were established. Many things have changed in the houses we build today versus what we built back in the 1930's-1950's. We often build on wetter sites (because many of the high-and-dry ones are gone.) We also build houses deeper into the ground. (I cannot count the times I have crawled DOWN into a crawl space.) We build smaller overhangs without gutters and downspouts, and sometimes do not slope the land away from the foundation. The most significant change we have made in the last 50 years, in my opinion, is air conditioning. In many parts of the country, we make a standard practice of creating artificially cooler temperatures in our homes. Now we easily create temperatures that are near or even below the dew point temperature of the surrounding air. Condensation occurs on surfaces that never before experienced condensation. Air conditioning has upset the balance we used to experience, and the balance we were using when the ventilation codes were created. Fallacy #3 - The 1/150 or 1/1500 ventilation area requirements mean something. I used an ASHRAE Standard 51-1985 air flow test device...

Drop-In Floor Vent: Measure length and width of ductwork opening. Standard widths: 2.25", 4", and 6". Standard Lengths: 8", 10", 12", and 14". Drop in may also be used for walls, ceilings, and toekicks. Lip is .75" - 1" around perimeter of grate. 18 standard wood species available. Dampers available for Standard Sizes. NOTE: Larger Sizes and Alternate Wood Species available upon request. Framed Flush Floor Vent: Measure length and width of ductwork opening. Standard widths: 2.25", 4", and 6". Standard Lengths: 10", 12", and 14". When installed, this model will set level with 3/4" wood flooring. 18 standard wood species available. Dampers available for Standard Sizes . NOTE: Larger Sizes and Alternate Wood Species available upon request. Wall Mounted Cold Air Return: Measure width (horizontal), and height (vertical) of opening in wall or ceiling. Lip on unit will extend approximately 1" beyond opening around perimeter of return. 18 Standard wood species available, and sizes from 10 wide x 6 high. Note: Alternate Wood Species Available upon request. Tapered Base Vent: Width - Measure opening in baseboard, must be longer than the duct work opening. Height - Measure the vertical opening up the wall, the vent must be higher than this measurement. 18 standard wood species available. NOTE: Lar ger Sizes and Alternate Wood Species available upon request. Standard Widths: 15", 18", 24". Height - Measure vertical distance up the wall, must be higher than duct work opening. Standard Height: 4-7/16. Depth - Distance that the Grate extends onto floor from the wall. Standard depth: 2-7/8". Dampers available for Standard Sizes . Base Cold Air Return Grille: This model is used to replace the unsightly stamped metal returns commonly incorporated into the baseboard. 18 standard wood species available. Width: Measure the opening in the baseboard, must be wider than the ductwork opening in the wall. Standard Widths: 15", 18", 21" 24" and 32" Height Measure the vertical distance up the wall. Must be higher than the ductwork opening. S tandard Heights: 7-1/4" & 9-1/4"

I pulled up some old foam-backed carpeting in my basement laundry room to replace. The concrete slab is old, and had crumbling concrete patch work, so I set to scraping that all up, seems the more I scrape, the more comes up. AND, all the scraping has revealed 4 small (golf ball sized) patches of damp concrete. Damp to the touch, but not wet, really. A paper towel comes away dry. A few had a small amount of mold under the broken concrete patch. I cleaned up the floor as best I could and have been running a de-humidifier down there for 4 days, with no change. I was planning on patching up the broken up areas, enough to level it for some more cheap carpeting. It's the laundry room, I'm not concerned with perfection, but now I have two worries. First, is my house going to float away if I don't spend $20, 000 getting my floor ripped out, new drains installed, etc.? Second, if I wait til a dry spell, seal the concrete with something, fill with concrete patch and lay down some carpet tiles, will I go to basement water-proofing hell? Fact#1: the basement isn't really damp other than the floor patches. Fact#2:this part of the house is old. Real old. (1880) The floor looks to be block with a thin concrete cap, though, so maybe its been re-done. Fact#3: There is a sump pump, sitting below the floor level, functioning properly, and I can see 2 drain tile openings in the basin. Water looks to be dripping from them, so drainage is working at some level. The slab in question is smallish, about 100 sq ft, about 2 ft higher than the rest of basement, ( 2 steps up) which is a finished rec room with linoleum finish on floor. The concrete cap is pebbled concrete work, and looks like smooth concrete troweled over to patch in some areas.