The walls must be going through the solid floor and breaking the damp-proof course, you can tank (ie strip the plaster back to the brickwork and line the walls with a waterproof membrane, then re-plaster) the lower section of the walls up to about a metre but this is quite a big job and I recommend using an expert.If they are low, along the full length of the wall, it''''s rising damp and you need your damp-proof course checked.If they are low, along the full length of the wall, it''s rising damp and you need your damp-proof course checked.If your home doesn't have a damp-proof course, or it's defective, you'll need a damp specialist to install one.This is unlike, say, the choice of the damp-proof course.Faults in a damp-proof course may allow water to rise from the ground and soak the wall.Since 1875 a damp-proof course (DPC) has been required in the construction of walls.Often, after landscaping work, paving gets laid over the existing ground, raising it above the damp-proof course.The last thing to check is the damp-proof course which is low down on the wall.The damp-proof course company wants pounds 75 to assign it to me.Many of our older chimney stacks don't have a damp-proof course to stop water soaking through the brickwork and below the roof, whilst others have defective flashings around the stack allowing water to run off the roof and into the stack.They never had a damp-proof course fitted so they've suffered from rising damp for not tens of years but more than 100 years.
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